Taking care of horses in winter can feel like a slog, especially when blankets are involved. If you’re experiencing a particularly long, cold, and wet season — otherwise known as a typical Canadian winter — by the time February rolls around your blankets will likely need a refresh.
Superficial dirt shouldn’t affect a blanket’s ability to keep horses warm and dry, but keeping blankets as clean as possible will help prevent rubs, uncomfortable irritation, and even skin infections like rain rot.
Hopefully, these tips will help your blankets survive, and help you make it to spring with a smile on your face!
1. Reproof
Blankets typically need to be reproofed at least once a year in order to remain waterproof. Even if you did your due diligence and cleaned and reproofed your blankets at the end of last season, if you’re experiencing a particularly wet winter, you may need to reproof midway through. Even the best waterproofing on top-quality blankets breaks down over time.
Reproofing can save you from buying a new blanket, and it can also save you from dealing with the hassle of trying to treat rain rot caused by soaked-through blankets. Most importantly, it will keep your horse warm and dry.
It’s easy to tell if your blanket needs reproofing. The water that collects on the surface of the fabric should bead and trickle off. If rain or snow quickly soaks through in wet conditions, the blanket needs to be reproofed.
The first step for reproofing your blanket is a thorough cleaning. See below for a few methods you can use to do this based on your available resources.
There are many different reproofing washes and sprays made specifically for horse blankets. A popular and cost-effective alternative is a generic waterproofing spray like the kind used for outdoor cushions, clothing, and tents. A favourite is Atsko Silicone Water-Guard, available at Canadian Tire. The product is environmentally friendly and safe for use on human clothing.
To avoid applying an uneven coat, divide your blanket into sections and move from left to right, top to bottom. Let the waterproofing dry completely before adding a second coat.
Don’t forget to wear a thick face mask and gloves, and to apply the spray or wash outdoors, or in a well-ventilated indoor space. It’s always a good idea to spray far away from anywhere your horse might eat or drink.
2. Spot Clean
The most practical winter blanket cleaning option is spot cleaning. Start by laying the blanket out flat and brushing it with a stiff bristled brush to remove any loose dirt, dandruff, hair, or small pieces of hay that get threaded into the seams.
Vacuuming the interior is another great way to get at dust and hair trapped in the weave of liners and fleeces.
Then, fill a bucket with warm water and a small amount of mild soap. There are many soaps designed specifically for horse blankets, but colourless mild dish soap is a good alternative. Use a brush or sponge to work out the caked dirt. Rinse with clean water afterwards.
The dirtiest parts of a blanket are often the leg straps, belly straps, and the tail flaps. You can finish up the spot cleaning by soaking the leg straps, which can be completely removed and soaked in a bucket of warm water. You can also soak the belly straps.
The inner lining will likely be much cleaner than the outside, but will still be coated with a residue from your horse’s skin. To remove this, scrub the lining with half a cup of vinegar diluted in warm water.
(Left) Brushing and vacuuming the interior of your liners, fleeces, and blankets helps remove hair and dirt before a wash, and also works as a great way to spot clean. (Middle) The inner liner of your blanket can be scrubbed with diluted vinegar and water to remove the residue that comes from your horse’s skin. To remove and deodorize urine stains, spray the blanket with a mist of water before applying baking soda, and then scrub with a stiff brush. (Right) If you’re experiencing a particularly wet winter season, or you’ve washed your blankets, you may need to refresh the waterproofing. (Charlie Fiset photos)
3. Deodorize
If you notice your blanket has acquired a bad smell, or if you pull your spare out of storage and it has a dingy scent, a quick treatment with baking soda might solve the problem with minimal effort.
Lay your blanket out flat on the ground and mist it with water. Then sprinkle the entire outer surface with baking soda, paying particular attention to urine and manure stains. Scrub the stains with a stiff brush, then let the baking soda sit for as long as possible, but at least until dry. Then thoroughly brush the baking soda off.
Alternatively, a great way to freshen up musty blankets is to spray the inside of the blanket with diluted essential oils. Tea tree oil is great antiseptic that can protect your horse’s skin from infections like rain rot.
In a one-litre spray bottle, add around twenty drops of tea tree oil. Shake well before lightly coating the inner lining of the blanket. In addition to smelling great, tea tree is safe for use on horses, but always be sure to monitor your horse to ensure there’s no irritation.
4. Deep Clean
Ideally, your blanket will be able to make it through the season without a full deep clean. But sometimes there’s just no getting around the need to wash a blanket. The easiest way is to simply ship it off to the professionals, but this can become expensive if you have a lot of blankest and can also take longer than doing it yourself. Most will also expect the worst of the mud and hair to be removed first anyway.
After brushing and/or vacuuming the blanket, soak it in lukewarm water in a large plastic tub with a small amount of mild soap. After soaking, go over the problem areas with a sponge or stiff brush, and then thoroughly hose off the blanket with gentle pressure in a shower stall. If you don’t have a shower stall, you can refill the large tub with clean water and use it to rinse thoroughly.
Wring out your blanket as much as possible, and then hang it to drip dry, exposing as much of the surface area to the air as possible.
If there’s a washing machine in your tack room, this simplifies things. Make sure the washer has a drum large enough to accommodate larger items. Even the biggest home washing machines often have trouble with blankets that have a thicker lining than 200 grams, so you may want to skip the washing machine entirely and opt for hand-washing. (Note: if you are fortunate enough to live near a laundromat that has an industrial washer specifically for horse blankets, by all means use it, but do NOT use regular machines for this purpose as it will not be appreciated, and may even damage them.)
Don’t forget to check your blanket’s care instructions before machine washing. Many brands and tack shops offer brand-specific care tips on their websites. It’s typically best to wash in cold water, with a soap designed for washing blankets, or a mild, scentless laundry soap that will not irritate your horse’s skin.
There are several different methods of wrapping the buckles to prevent them from denting the machine’s drum. You can try making slits in the band on an old sock, slipping the buckles inside, and tying the slits together. You can also try tying the buckles together and tucking them into the centre of the load, where they will be padded by the blanket itself.
Don’t forget that after every deep clean, you may need to reapply the waterproofing.
5. Rotate Top Shells
Strategy is an important part of long-haul blanketing. If your horse is prone to dirtying his blankets, rather than relying on a single thick blanket, try pairing a thicker liner with a thinner outer shell that can be cleaned more easily. This method works best if you have two shells, so you can simply rotate them while spot cleaning.
Many blanket brands offer shells that fit perfectly to attachments on liners from the same brand. Always make sure the liner is compatible with the outer shell before investing money. Because the shells are washed more, if using this method you will likely have to reproof at least once during the season.